Seeking Advice: Possible Book Defect?

[Sock Monkey]

Repairs of any sort should be reported in the sale listing, at which point buyers are free to decide if it's enough to impact what they want to pay. Typically, though, no one goes to the trouble and cost of repairing a book unless it's a) a very valuable book and b) a significant amount of damage.

If I went through the hassle of repairing the book, I probably wouldn't part with it. My main concern was would I be pouring more money into the book than either (a) it's worth after the repair, or (b) more than I could just buy another copy for. This is one of those situations where I wish had bookbinding skills and could do it myself. I do not have said skills and until they can download stuff to your brain like in The Matrix, I probably won't be picking them up anytime soon.

And, yes, for the record, while Keanu is learning Kung Fu and everyone else in the whole world are becoming super-warriors, I'll be that guy whos like "I'll take bookbinding and slipcase-making skills, please". I'll die very quickly in the eventual war, but my copy of THE AUTOPSY & OTHER STORIES will look great!

[slayn666]

As far as repairing it, I have no experience in this arena. Does anybody have any idea who does that and what it would cost? Would it have an impact on the book’s value in either direction?

Repairs of any sort should be reported in the sale listing, at which point buyers are free to decide if it's enough to impact what they want to pay. Typically, though, no one goes to the trouble and cost of repairing a book unless it's a) a very valuable book and b) a significant amount of damage.

[Sock Monkey]

I had my Little Sisters of Eluria repaired by Scott Kellar in Chicago. He doesn't have a website but here's a method to contact him: https://www.yelp.com/biz/scott-k-kel...tion-chicago-2

I'd say look into local bookbinders near you. I don't know what it would take or cost. But if it's done well, I'd imagine it will help the resale value. As long as nothing on the exterior is changed.

Thanks, Jeff!

[Sock Monkey]

For $400, I definitely would have reached out as well...that’s a serious investment. Good to hear he offered you a resolution you could live with. I probably would have pushed for more, but ultimately eBay would have sided with him with no overt defect and apparently no quoted claim of condition, so 20% is better than nothing. A bird in the hand... and all that. Sorry again this didn’t work out for you…I know it was a book you were really looking forward to receiving.

Were it me, I wouldn’t spend any more money trying to rebind this book. What you may want to consider is reselling it, at which point it will probably fetch around $200, maybe $300, with the defects disclosed. Then take that money (albeit a loss) and find yourself a pristine copy. Might be a way to avoid some hassle, though might mean waiting (again)...let’s face it, many Centipede collectors don’t even read their books, so there’s no reason for accepting anything that’s less than as-new if one has the patience to wait for the right deal.

I thought about pushing for more when the discount was offered, but like you said, if it escalated and went to eBay for a decision, then I'd probably lose and have wasted a bunch of effort in the process. If I had known about the issue or had paid way less for the book it be the issue that it is.

I haven't settled on which direction to head in yet. Maybe I'll look into rebinding, but like you mentioned, maybe just selling the book at a loss and getting a new copy would be the best way to go. Oh well, I guess I have time to mull that one over a bit.

[RonClinton]

For $400, I definitely would have reached out as well...that’s a serious investment. Good to hear he offered you a resolution you could live with. I probably would have pushed for more, but ultimately eBay would have sided with him with no overt defect and apparently no quoted claim of condition, so 20% is better than nothing. A bird in the hand... and all that. Sorry again this didn’t work out for you…I know it was a book you were really looking forward to receiving.

Were it me, I wouldn’t spend any more money trying to rebind this book. What you may want to consider is reselling it, at which point it will probably fetch around $200, maybe $300, with the defects disclosed. Then take that money (albeit a loss) and find yourself a pristine copy. Might be a way to avoid some hassle, though might mean waiting (again)...let’s face it, many Centipede collectors don’t even read their books, so there’s no reason for accepting anything that’s less than as-new if one has the patience to wait for the right deal.

[jeffingoff]

And I'm glad the seller apologized and is trying to make it right.

[jeffingoff]

I had my Little Sisters of Eluria repaired by Scott Kellar in Chicago. He doesn't have a website but here's a method to contact him: https://www.yelp.com/biz/scott-k-kel...tion-chicago-2

I'd say look into local bookbinders near you. I don't know what it would take or cost. But if it's done well, I'd imagine it will help the resale value. As long as nothing on the exterior is changed.

[Sock Monkey]

I reached out to the seller and he offered a 20% partial refund which I accepted. I’m still rather bummed as I wouldn’t have purchased the book with this issue but I’ve made my peace with it as the seller apologized and is making an effort to make it right.

As far as repairing it, I have no experience in this arena. Does anybody have any idea who does that and what it would cost? Would it have an impact on the book’s value in either direction?

[jeffingoff]

Decided to reach out to seller. We’ll see if they get back to me or not.

Good luck. Let us know how it turns out. Would you consider spending additional $$ to have it repaired?

[Sock Monkey]

Decided to reach out to seller. We’ll see if they get back to me or not.

[Sock Monkey]

Sorry I couldn't post sooner, but I put the first post up right before work and then...life.

Thank you to everyone who has replied and for Ron's very cool preventative care post. I'd have never thought of that.

Per Dan's question, the book does open more than what I'd expect, but not enough to see how it's bound together. It seems the thought is that it's a page block coming loose or a broken spine. Either way, I'm rather bummed. I agree with Ron that I'm unsure if I'll be able to get a refund for this book from the seller and/or win the case through eBay. The listing made no comments as to the condition of the book in either direction. I was hesitant at first but scoured the pictures for potential defects or issues and could see none. There was no picture of the top headband of the book that would have shown the issue.

Ron also made the comment as to if I got "a good deal" then it would be easier to keep it. I guess that raises the question of what a good deal is. I won the auction at around $375 and after shipping and sales tax, the purchased crossed the $400 line. I was very happy with the price of the book when I had believed its condition was better. Prices for this book can be rather steep, though, as usual, with Centipede, you'll get some sellers asking ridiculous prices they'll never get. I wouldn't have bid that high or maybe at all if I had known the issue.

I'm mulling over whether or not to reach out to the seller or just live with the book.

[jeffingoff]

Thanks for the pointers Ron. Very helpful!

[goathunter]

Here's what Camelot did with their lettered editions of Speaks the Nightbird a book notorious for this kind of separation:

The lettered editions that aren't. There was no such thing until someone at River City decided to letter some copies for who knows why. Just saying. This is not a slam on Camelot. It's not their doing. But as I explained in great detail on DT.org, there was never a lettered edition until a few copies with letters all showed up at the same time a couple of years ago.

[RonClinton]

Ron, you raise a point about improper shelving. My Salem's Lot gift edition looks pretty similar to the above photo (apart from the page block coming away from that back board) and all I ever did was put it on a shelf. Is there something I should do to elevate the book or tilt it? I came to the same conclusion you outlined above--heavy book block just pulling away from the spin over time.

Camelot's tactic above is one remedy, but not one I'd suggest...all that's going to do over time is flatten the spine and page block, which inherently stretches and weakens the bound curvature of the book, so when it is then put upright, it's already weakened and prone to issues of future bowing.

Here's what I do...keep in mind these tactics have not been subjected to scientific rigor and analysis. But 30 years of caretaking books tends to clue one in on what works and what doesn't. BTW, these recommendations assume the book is as-new(ish) and doesn't already suffer from a bowed or broken spine...that's a different ball of wax, and has a different approach. It also assumes the book is a very thick book that requires this treatment...obviously (and thankfully), most books do not.

Bear with me...I've never tried to explain this process before...but it's what I do, and it seems to works quite well. As anecdotal proof, my copy of the Shea book above still looks like new.

• Select a spot for it on your shelf; make sure the shelf is completely full with other books (save for the spot needed for this book).
• Remove a book or two to the right of where this book will sit.
• Take a long strip of white paper (preferably acid-free) and cut it to the width of the page block -- do NOT include the boards in this width, only the page block. In fact, unless the paper is folded perfectly, it will tend to be wider than wanted, so take a tiny bit off the width of the page block. Fold the piece of paper (in a one(ish)-inch rectangular shape) until it is the height of the gap between the bottom of the boards and the bottom of the page block...now fold it another time or two, so is in slight excess of that difference.
• Make sure the book is curved as much as it's able to be...hold the spine on both sides with the forefinger and thumb, and then push forward on both sides in a rocking motion as you're pressing in (toward the spine) on the outer page block...you're trying to make the curvature as pronounced as possible.
• Now hold the spine, and with your other hand place the folded piece of paper against the front (right side if looking a book face on) width area of the page block, i.e. the point farthest from the spine.
• Holding the spine and the piece of paper in place, slide the bottom of the boards carefully onto the shelf (or into a slipcase, if it has one), releasing the folded piece of paper as it slides onto the shelf (or into the slipcase) -- which now rests against the bottom page block and supports it, keeping it from drooping (and pulling away from / bowing the spine).
• Slide it sideways against the book to its left, making sure the boards don't lift up from the shelf and disturb the placement of the folded paper.
• Now slide the books to its right one at a time back onto the shelf and make sure the first one is set against the book in question, so it holds it in place, before sliding in the second...make sure entire shelf is filled tightly, not so tightly that it "squeezes" the book and creates bowing-without-drooping (pushing the page block outward by the extreme force), but very firmly so that the book is not only supported on the bottom by the folded paper, but also by the tension on both sides which then prevents the page block from drooping.

Hope this helps. It's actually a lot simpler than that mass of words above would suggest. Anybody needs clarification, let me know. Again, it's my home remedy, one I've never heard anyone else use, so take it for what it's worth, but I continue to use it because it works.

[jeffingoff]

Here's what Camelot did with their lettered editions of Speaks the Nightbird a book notorious for this kind of separation:

Thanks for pointing that out. Looks like I'm going to need to have book cots so 'Salem's Lot, IT, and Sleeping Beauties can have a lay down. I'll write the titles on the bottoms of the cases in Sharpie.